Dolce & Gabbana court millennials, Plein launches activewear

MILAN: If turmoil brings innovation and renovation, Italian menswear is in for a creative burst.

Fashion houses are continuing their reboot of Milan Fashion Week menswear offerings, with notables like Bottega Veneta and Gucci sitting out this round, preferring to combine menswear and womenswear previews next month. That is making room for a plethora of newcomers.
The data indicates that menswear is worth the re-think. Euromonitor market research forecasts that between now and 2020, growth in sales for men’s attire and accessories globally will outpace that of women. Last year alone, Italian menswear produced 9 billion euros in revenue.
Here are some highlights Saturday of menswear previews for next fall and winter on the first day of Milan Fashion Week:
Dolce&Gabbana have one-upped themselves, moving the young millennial crowd that has populated their front row in recent seasons onto the runway.
Pop star Austin Mahone, dapper in a tux with tapered legs, set the mood, dancing up and down the runway throughout the show, making the moves on the ladies, who included Sylvester Stallone’s three daughters.
Dolce&Gabbana’s show was titled “The New Princes” and it’s clear that they are catering to a young, selfie-savvy generation bred on social media. In an ultimate branding move, the designing pair created a pair of faceQ app-like images of themselves on jackets and sweaters.
Alongside the brand’s trademark tailored suits, the new collection includes zany plush animal head hoods or backpacks, and Rasta knit hats or crowns over baseball caps, fun-loving Harajuku touches for a generation that prizes its juvenile side. Jeans and jackets were covered with appliques, with royal motifs from crowns to hearts emerging as decorative emojis.
The collection was a fast and furious display of graphic prowess with humanised animal motifs alongside the brand’s typical religious imagery, a display as breathless as the new generation of star power on the runway.
The new Versace man is both a traveler who means business and a sportsman who knows how to relax.
His suits fit close to the body, paired with dark glasses and two-toned sneakers, topped with double-breasted overcoats, knitted blanket jackets or belted trenches. After hours, he relaxes with hoodies under bomber jackets, worn with the day’s trousers or athletic pants. And on the weekend, he hits the outdoors in plaid shirts and shearling coats.
Models crisscrossed the runway beneath arched gates, suggesting a Middle Eastern market. The exotic vibe also was reflected in ethnic patterns that cut diagonally along jackets, or were put tile-like on bombers.
Versace’s neoclassic Greek patterns were replaced this round with photographic prints of classical sculptures.
“This is a collection about the different tribes of Versace men,” Donatella Versace wrote in show notes, “and the powerful positivity that can happen when men from different places, different cultures join together.”
Marni has taken a rumpled, colorful turn. The new Marni man, as imagined by creative director Francesco Risso in his debut season, is something of a light-hearted vagabond.
The brand’s heritage fur appears in hats that have the appearance of colorful wigs, as square tufts on jacket sleeves, wisps on collars and finally, in their full glory, as fluffy overcoats.
There is a geometry to the looks, reflected in the square cuts of the suits and the plaid and checks of the prints. Woolen suits have a rumbled, train-hopping feel. Tops project optical illusions, created from mismatched patches of striped fabric.
Sweaters feature naive 1970s graphics, tucked into high-waist, big-fitting corduroy trousers. Quilted trousers in pajama prints are paired with bomber jackets.
The effect is that of an iconoclast, which seems influenced in some measure by Risso’s last employer, Prada. The designer, who studied in Florence, New York and London, took over from the brand’s creator, Consuelo Castiglioni, who stepped down last October, citing personal reasons.
Giorgio Armani has reinterpreted classics through the decades with a modern edge for his youthful Emporio Armani line.
Armani is hewing to the traditional menswear and womenswear calendars, but blurring the line on the runway.
Many of the looks were feminised, like flowing knitwear or curved hemlines on short jackets. Trousers tended to be ample and pleated, and Armani employed luxurious fabrics like velvets for men and lots of fur, both as trim and full fur coats.
Double-breasted suits with soft hemlines and loose trousers recalled a 1940s cool, while fur collars on overcoats harkened to a 1970s mod.
Armani mixed geode-like patterns with plaids, sticking with gray scale to black for a contemporary urban feel. Thick, furry neck warmers framed the face, while molded brim hats topped the sophisticated silhouette.
Hair was slicked back and footwear had thick traction soles. Bags included big pockets on cross-body halters. The color palette was classic: gray, black, tan and olive green.
Alessandro Sartori made his debut Friday evening as the creative director of Ermenegildo Zegna in a monumental style, sending his creations down a runway flanked by Anselm Kiefer’s towering installation of The Seven Heavenly Palaces at Pirelli’s cavernous Hangar Bicocca.
The looks exuded relaxed sophistication, as tailoring altered sportswear, and vice versa. Or, as the brand said in its press notes, Sarotori’s “new aesthetic … evolves and breaks codes, relying on intense textures and keen constructions that define new functions.”
Elasticised cuffs on trousers and gathers on jackets gave suits an active feel that was completed with sneakers. Felted cashmere suits had the simplicity of jersey, with quilted arms in contrast colors to create a vest effect over kimono neckline shirts.
Nubby Casentino felt from Tuscany was created from cashmere and alpaca, suggesting ease but underlining elegance in loose-fitting suits. Cozy accents included high necks, big gloves and droopy caps.
Colors tended toward gray, tan and black neutrals while turquoise and white popped up on leather jackets and large knits.
Phillip Plein has found what he says is an untapped niche: luxury activewear.
On the first day of Milan Fashion Week, the German designer debuted his new Plein Sport line, which he only first envisioned last June after discovering that the biggest grossing textile companies weren’t traditional fashion houses, but Nike and Adidas.
“Active sportswear is one of the biggest segments, but we don’t have even one luxury alternative,” Plein told the assembled fashion crowd. Until now.
Gymansts flipped in Plein Sport pants. Muscle-bound boxers shimmied in shorts. Skiers donned silvery parkas with black face masks. Female runners were clad in floral running tights and tops. A kickboxer wore a midriff-baring neoprene top over tights. And dancers splashed in a pool of shallow water to the rhythmic beat of drums.
While there was a collective groan of disappointment from the crowd when Plein, the Milan fashion world’s premier showman, announced last season he would be moving to New York with his main line, the designer showed he has plenty of party left for Milan.
Online companies ring the changes in food industry
Joseph Kim, a computer programmer living in Seoul, is a busy man. He is so overloaded at work he can rarely go grocery shopping.

With few hours to spend at the gym, his weight has been creeping up steadily, forcing him to change his diet and have salads delivered to his door twice weekly. All he has to do is order on his computer or smartphone.

Wrapped in a green eco bag and consisting of an assortment of fruits and vegetables, the curated meals he receives have helped him deal with his predicament. 
“It’s not the best quality of greens I can prepare myself, but it’s something I can live with,” he told The Korea Herald. 

Kim is one of a growing army of professional men and women in Korea who choose delivery over dining out. With the swell of electronic commerce and social media, online-to-offline (O2O) businesses have sprung up in droves over the last five years, transforming the industry. 

“Korea is undoubtedly a ‘delivery republic,’” said Lee Jun-gyu, brand director for Foodinno, a franchise firm that specializes in fried sweet and sour chicken with over 150 branches across the country. 

“With a small landmass, dense population and culture of frequent overtime work and late-night eating, as well as the rise of single-member households, Korea has all the ingredients ripe for the spread of food delivery.” 
As the economy has lost vigor, people are less inclined to dine out, he noted, preferring to eat at home alone or with the family instead. He added what has become the fashionable trend of eating and drinking solo -- now known as “honbap” and “honsul,” respectively -- also plays a part. 

Of some 34,000 McDonald’s branches worldwide, in fact, Korea’s are the only ones that regularly offer delivery. Starting with the delivery of Korean-style Chinese foods in the 1980s, options expanded to fried chicken in the ‘90s, pizza in the 2000s and salad, sushi and sherbet nowadays. 

The force driving the market now is O2O services, with companies Baedal Minjok, Yogiyo and Baedaltong leading the pack. The market size of this groundbreaking group is estimated to be $1 billion, according to industry insiders. 

While these firms have reaped the gains at the forefront of technological evolution, the franchises and independent restaurants have become docile followers. Some are actively embracing the platform, others are lagging behind, but turning a blind eye to the industrywide upheaval could spell business failure, Lee warns. 

Neil Koh, who publishes drinks and culture magazine DNC and imports Georgian wines through his company Rusko spirits, says the new commercial model has resulted in the cleaving of the industry, with deliverymen hired by O2O companies and shipping firms instead of restaurants.

“It’s a paradigm change,” according to Koh. “Hiring deliverymen has become an uphill battle.” 

Brangelina have secret sex den behind waterfall

Could they be any more perfect?
Millions in the bank, a perfect brood, gorgeous looks… and apparently a great sex life too.
Inglourious Basterds actor Brad Pitt revealed a secret grotto behind the waterfall in his pool is "a great place for sex" with stunning wife Angelina Jolie.

He also quashed rumours of a break-up, saying: "I have a love in my life, a soulmate – absolutely."
Defending their decision not to wed, Brad said: "When someone asked why Angie and I don’t get married, I replied, ‘Maybe we’ll get married when it’s legal for everyone else.’
"I stand by that, although I took a lot of flak for saying it – hate mail from religious groups.
"I believe everyone should have the same rights."
The more perfect-than-perfect guy then told Parade magazine: "Would it bother me if a child of mine turns out to be gay?
"No, not one bit. Listen, I want my kids to live the lives they want to live. I want them to be fulfilled.
"I hope I teach my kids to be who they really are."

Transgender Nepali has her big moment on Indian catwalk

It was her big moment. Anjali Lama sashayed down the catwalk in the swanky Mumbai auditorium. A fitted, cream dress highlighted her tall, slender frame. Her pulled-back hair showed off her high cheekbones.
Modeling at Lakme Fashion Week often seemed like a dream far beyond her reach, but Lama has become the first transgender woman to model at one of the top events on India’s fashion calendar and one sponsored by a top Indian cosmetics brand.

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